On the Road Trip

I Fell in Love with Virginia

by Emily Warman
The author poses with her favorite president, FDR, at the Homestead Resort. All photos by Emily Warman.

Popupla sent Emily Warman, a skeptical NYC editor, to Virginia to discover what all that old-fashioned Southern charm is about.

SHENANDOAH VALLEY, Virginia – When Popupla sent me on a road trip with five other twenty-ish travel writers to discover the hidden gems of Virginia in the beautiful Shenandoah Valley, I was tentatively optimistic and curious. The hosts had pre-billed these "gems" as "old-school" and "nostalgic." But how could you be nostalgic for places you've never been? Answer: When the towns you visit are so achingly authentic and adorable you start to miss them when you're already there. My travels from Staunton to Lexington to Roanoake were, in fact, so old-school and nostalgic that I felt wholesome during my trip — not my typical style. Another bonus: People from Virginia are really, really nice.

Wright's Dairy Rite

Emily's Instagram shot of Wright's Dairy Rite iconic sign.

Day One: Staunton

We drive from the (ROA) to Staunton, a pretty drive supplemented with views of the . Lunch is at , which is located in an old freight depot and is the kind of place that automatically puts slices of lemon in your water. It's unfussy and unpretentious, a solid casual eatery with great burgers. From there, we stop for dessert at Wright's Dairy Rite (346 Greenville Ave., Staunton; +1-540-886-0435), an original drive-thru that's been kicking around for more than 50 years. I Instagram the iconic sign, order a soft-serve, and sit outside, right across the street from an old mental institution. This makes for interesting conversation.

We continue to the , a pretty downtown area that feels straight out of the 1950s, homey shops and all. Like , with its eclectic collection of books and vinyl. I'm tired by now, but since I love my mother, I stop by and make her a glass-blown ornament. The artist-in-resident does most of the work, but my precious breath is trapped inside forever. Is Southern charm contagious?

I check in and nap at the , which discretely murmurs "Southern hospitality" and is within walking distance of everything I want to do. Dinner is at , which somehow manages to feel both quaint and trendy, due to urban decor and Southern cuisine primarily sourced from the Shenandoah Valley. We end the day with a nightcap on the roof deck at .

Natural Bridge of Virginia

The Natural Bridge in Rockbridge County.

Virginia Safari Park

Getting close to the animals at Virginia Safari Park. Photo: Courtesy of Virginia Tourism Corporation.

Day Two: The Natural Bridge, the Close Encounters

After a quick buffet breakfast at the hotel, we head south to in Rockbridge County, a national historic landmark billed as one of Seven Natural Wonders of the World.

Now it's time to get wild at , which is essentially a drive-thru zoo. It sounds like an awful tourist trap, but stay with me: This is the most fun we have. We grab some (ask for extra buckets, as the camels tend to steal them) and drive into the animal reserve. Pretty soon enormous bison, elk, camels, llamas, and more press their slobbery noses against our car and attempt to inhale whole buckets of . It's thrilling, ridiculous, and a little scary. I scream the whole time like a hysterical teenage girl, and I love it. Warning: Your car will get very dirty. So what.

Our next stop is Lexington, home to the . We see many young cadets walking around the quaint downtown area. It's not a bad look. We decide to go full-tourist and take a picturesque . For fuel, we order fried chicken and biscuits at , figuring we need a good base before stopping by the .

Fried chicken at Southern Inn.

The Homestead Resort

The Homestead Resort pool

The Homestead Resort and the pool.

It's a two-hour drive to , a hotel that has more history than most states. To wit: 22 presidents have stayed there. If you're counting, that's half of them. We have dinner at the on the property, which is low-key, filling, and decidedly less stuffy than the main dining room. After dinner, we have a glass of wine (that is, three) at the hotel bar, a stately room filled with portraits of all the presidents who have rested their heads in these rooms.

Day Three: Roanoke

Brunch in the is opulent but casual during the day. And speaking of history, the woman who runs the omelette station has been working here for decades.

Humpback Covered Bridge

Humpback Bridge.

Emily in Shenandoah Valley

Virginia really is lovable, the author quickly learns.

We up the scenery ante at , the oldest covered bridge in Virginia. I have a cup of coffee, ponder the "Love" sign, and have a quiet moment.

We keep moving. (This is a road trip, after all.) Roanoke is our next stop, off I-81 and the Blue Ridge Parkway. We wander around and visit the before settling down outside with a local beer to enjoy live music, a regular occurrence around town. Lunch at lives up to its name: The buttermilk fried ramps were personally foraged by our waitress. Nearby is a local staple. The line winds around the block, and we're happy to wait on it.

is our destination for the night, and we're lucky to be checking in on the same night the hotel is hosting the local prom. The prom! We're tempted, but we don't crash it, which is a good thing because that would have meant missing the best roast chicken I've ever had at , yet another farm-to-table restaurant. Ordering the chicken is usually an amateur move, but the smart order is on the bird here. After dinner, we hit the scene in downtown Roanoke — and couldn't help notice the disproportionate number of clubs and scantily clad ladies. Yee-haw.

Recovery comes in the morning via hangover biscuits with sausage gravy at . And with that, we're out. I leave having felt truly, unironically, and very happily Southern for a weekend.


. (Google Maps)


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